Kars City Guide 2026: Kars and the Ani Ruins

Kars is the launch point for eastern Turkey’s most extraordinary site - Ani, the medieval Armenian capital that now stands empty on a plateau above the Arpaçay gorge, its cathedral, churches, mosques, and city walls visible for miles. The city itself is worth time: Russian-era stone architecture, cheese of unusual quality, and a high-altitude plateau atmosphere that feels nothing like western Turkey.

Getting to Kars

By air: Kars Harakani Airport (KSY) receives daily flights from Istanbul with Turkish Airlines and Pegasus. The journey is approximately 2 hours. Fares range from approximately ₺600–1,800 one-way as of 2026 depending on advance booking. From the airport, take a taxi to the city centre - approximately ₺100–150, 10–15 minutes.

By the Eastern Express: The Doğu Ekspresi (Eastern Express) is the celebrated option - a 24-hour train from Ankara that crosses the Anatolian interior and arrives at Kars. Book via TCDD (tcdd.gov.tr) 2–3 months ahead for autumn and winter. Couchette compartments (6 berths with bedding) cost approximately ₺600–1,200; private sleepers (2 berths) approximately ₺1,500–2,500 as of 2026. See our Eastern Express guide for full booking instructions.

By bus: From Erzurum, buses take approximately 3 hours (₺200–300 as of 2026). From Van, the journey is approximately 5–6 hours via Ağrı (₺300–450).

Kars city: what to see

Kars Kalesi (Kars Castle): The fortress on the hill above the city - built over Byzantine foundations, expanded by Ottoman and Russian governors - gives the best overview of Kars and the surrounding plateau. Entry is free. The walk from the city centre takes approximately 20 minutes uphill; the views extend to snow-capped mountains on clear days.

Russian-era architecture: The city grid of stone-fronted buildings along Atatürk Caddesi and Cumhuriyet Caddesi is a legacy of Russian occupation from 1877 to 1918. The Russian Orthodox church (now the Kümbet Mosque) on the main square is the most prominent survivor. The proportions - wide boulevards, stone facades, arched windows - give Kars a distinctly Central European character.

Cheese shops (peynirciler): Kars Gravyer is the city’s defining product. The cheese shops along Atatürk Caddesi sell it aged from 6 months to 3 years; older examples develop a crystalline texture and concentrated flavour. Budget approximately ₺200–400/kg as of 2026. Kars honey (from highland wildflowers) and Kars kaşarı (a firmer aged yellow cheese) are also sold in the same shops. Most shops will cut samples without purchase pressure.

Kars Museum (Kars Müzesi): A small but well-organised museum covering the archaeology and history of the Kars plateau, including finds from Ani and artefacts from the Iron Age through the Ottoman period. Entry approximately ₺50–100 as of 2026. Open Tuesday–Sunday 08:30–17:30.

Where to stay in Kars

Kar’s Otel - The premium option in Kars, occupying a restored stone building with a well-regarded restaurant serving cheese-focused menus and a good wine and rakı list. Staff are accustomed to tourists and can arrange Ani taxis. Approximately ₺2,500–4,000/night as of 2026.

Hotel Katerina Palace - A mid-range hotel in the Russian-era building stock, well-positioned near the city centre. Clean rooms in a character building; the superior rooms have high ceilings and period features. Approximately ₺1,800–2,800/night in peak season 2026.

Kars Hotel Güngören - Reliable mid-range option with good breakfast included. Staff are helpful with Ani directions and local information. Approximately ₺1,200–1,800/night.

Temel Otel - The most established budget option near the city centre, consistently reviewed for cleanliness and straightforward service. Approximately ₺800–1,200/night.

For the Ani day trip, all hotels above are suitable bases - the ruins are 43 km away and any taxi can be arranged through reception.

The Ani ruins

Ani was the capital of the Bagratid Armenian kingdom in the 10th and 11th centuries - a major city of 100,000–200,000 people at its peak, with architecture that rivalled Constantinople. After successive Seljuk, Georgian, Mongol, and Timurid occupations, a 1319 earthquake and the shift of Silk Road trade routes left it depopulated. It has been empty since the 14th century.

The site sits on a dramatic triangular plateau above the Arpaçay gorge - the Armenian border runs along the river below. What survives is extraordinary: city walls that stretch 1.5 km, multiple churches, the oldest mosque in Anatolia, a caravanserai, and a Silk Road bridge still spanning the gorge.

Entry and hours: Approximately ₺300–400 per person as of 2026. Open daily 08:00–19:00 in summer, 08:00–17:00 in winter. No advance booking required.

Getting there: Taxis from Kars cost approximately ₺300–500 return including waiting time - negotiate the complete fare before departure and confirm the driver will wait. The drive takes approximately 40 minutes each way. Occasional shared dolmuş from Kars otogar; ask locally for current schedules. A dedicated tour from Kars (usually 4–5 hours including transport) can be arranged through hotels.

Allow: 3–4 hours minimum for a thorough visit. Comfortable walking shoes are essential - the ground is uneven and the plateau is windy. Carry water and a sun layer in summer.

What to see at Ani

City walls and Kars Gate: The double walls with towers and a fortified gate are the entrance point and among the best-preserved sections. Walk the wall circuit for the overview.

Cathedral of Ani (Ani Katedrali, 1001 AD): The largest medieval Armenian cathedral ever built, designed by the architect Trdat (who also repaired the Hagia Sophia dome). Roofless now, but the shell - 40 metres tall, with pointed arches that predate Gothic architecture in western Europe - stands almost intact. The carved stone decoration on the exterior is detailed and remarkably preserved.

Menüçehr Mosque (1072 AD): Built by the Seljuk sultan Alp Arslan after his conquest of Ani, this is considered the oldest mosque in Anatolia. The minaret survives. The combination of Islamic and Armenian architectural elements in one building is a compressed history of the site’s contested ownership.

Church of St Gregory of the Abughamrents: Circular plan, with traces of original fresco paintings surviving inside. One of the better-preserved interior spaces on the site.

Church of the Redeemer (Amenaprkitch): Half of this circular church collapsed in a 1957 lightning strike; the surviving half - a sharp vertical slice - is one of Ani’s most photographed images.

Silk Road bridge and gorge viewpoint: The ruined bridge over the Arpaçay gorge gives the most dramatic view of the site’s setting - and of the Armenian side of the border. The gorge drops steeply; stay on the marked paths near the edge.

Combining Kars and Ani with the wider itinerary

Kars and Ani require at minimum 2 nights in Kars - one for the city and cheese, one full day for Ani with time to breathe. From Kars, the onward route to Doğubayazıt and Van is the natural extension of an eastern Turkey trip; the 385 km drive to Van via Ağrı allows a stop at Ishak Pasha Palace en route (you can rent a car in Turkey for the flexibility). See our 5-day eastern Turkey itinerary for the full route.

For the Eastern Express travellers arriving from Ankara, Kars is the journey’s end - build in at least 2 nights before returning or continuing onward.

Other destinations in the southeast worth combining: Şanlıurfa (Göbekli Tepe, Balıklıgöl, Old City) and Mardin (the honey-coloured limestone city above the Mesopotamian plain), both 6–8 hours from Kars by bus or plane via Gaziantep.