Rize travel guide

Food to Try in Rize 2026: Fresh Tea, Hamsi and Black Sea Mountain Food

· 3 min read City Guide
Fresh Rize tea and Black Sea breakfast — cornbread, mountain honey and cheese

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Rize food shares the Black Sea food culture with Trabzon — hamsi in season, mıhlama, cornbread, and mountain dairy — but adds the specific tea dimension and the Hemşin culinary tradition from the mountain valleys. Drinking fresh tea here, from leaves picked in the surrounding hills, is a qualitatively different experience from the packaged Çaykur tea used everywhere in Turkey.

For the cultural context, see Rize food guide.

Fresh Rize tea

The fundamental Rize food experience: drinking fresh-brewed Rize çayı from leaves grown on the hillsides visible from the café window. The Turkish tea drunk daily across the country is overwhelmingly grown in this province; drinking it at the source has a completeness to it.

Where to drink it: The tea houses (çay bahçesi) with plantation views above the city; the farm visits where tea is brewed immediately after processing; the Atatürk Tea Garden at the top of the city.

Fresh vs packaged: Freshly harvested tea from local small producers has a lighter, more fragrant character than the mass-market Çaykur blend. Ask at local tea shops or farm visits for fresh single-harvest tea.

Cost: ₺20–35 per glass everywhere.

Hamsi (anchovy)

The same anchovy culture as Trabzon — October–February season, multiple preparations (hamsi pilavı, tava hamsi, hamsi köfte, hamsi in bread). The hamsi supply comes from the same Black Sea shoals.

Rize specificity: The restaurants in Rize and Pazar district are less tourist-oriented than Trabzon, so the hamsi preparation is more straightforwardly local.

Mıhlama and Black Sea corn dishes

Mıhlama/kuymak — the corn and cheese fondue — is the same as in Trabzon. The local kolot and tulum cheese quality in Rize is excellent, particularly the varieties from the Hemşin valley producers.

Rize-specific preparation: Some valley restaurants in the Hemşin area make kuymak with higher-quality local cheese than the city versions — worth seeking if in the valleys.

Hemşin pastry (Hemşin böregi)

The Hemşin people of the mountain valleys above Rize are known for their pastry-making tradition. Hemşin böreği is a sweet layered pastry made with local butter and honey — different from the standard savoury börek of the rest of Turkey.

Where to find: Pastry shops in Çamlıhemşin and Ayder; some Rize city bakeries. ₺40–80 per piece.

Mountain honey (dağ balı)

The wildflower meadows of the Kaçkar yaylalar produce exceptional honey — dark, intensely flavoured, from bees foraging on the high-altitude flora.

Types:

  • Çiçek balı (wildflower honey): General mountain honey. ₺200–400/kg.
  • Deli bal (mad honey): A specific honey from rhododendron nectar — contains grayanotoxin in small quantities, producing a mild intoxicating effect. Sold in limited quantities at valley markets. ₺400–800/kg. Note: consume only in very small amounts; larger quantities cause poisoning.

Where to buy: Market stalls in Rize; beekeepers in the mountain villages; the Ayder market.

Rize city market

The Rize market (Tuesday and Friday main markets; daily smaller market) has excellent fresh produce:

  • Tea leaves (fresh and dried)
  • Mountain honey (multiple types)
  • Local kolot and tulum cheese
  • Hazelnuts (the regional hazelnut is particularly good)
  • Fresh Black Sea fish in season

Price summary

FoodWhereCost
Tea (glass)Çay bahçesi₺20–35
Fresh plantation tea (50g)Tea shop/farm₺40–100
MıhlamaLokanta₺100–160
Tava hamsiRestaurant₺100–150
Hemşin pastryBakery₺40–80
Mountain honeyMarket₺200–400/kg
Deli bal (small jar)Valley market₺100–200

For the food culture, see Rize food guide.

Make the most of the food scene: Book a food tour of Rize to sample the standout local spots with a guide who knows where residents actually eat. An eSIM for Turkey keeps you connected for navigating neighbourhoods and checking restaurant hours on the go.

Frequently Asked Questions

What makes fresh Rize tea different from packaged Turkish tea?
Freshly harvested single-estate tea from Rize small producers has a lighter, more fragrant character than the mass-market Çaykur blend that dominates tea consumption across Turkey. The mass-market blend uses multiple harvests, machine processing, and blending across provinces; local Rize farm tea uses hand-picked spring flush leaves processed the same day. At a plantation or farm shop, ask for 'taze çay' (fresh tea) or single-estate tea — the aroma and flavour are meaningfully different.
What is mıhlama and where does it come from?
Mıhlama (also called kuymak) is a hot dish of cornmeal cooked with butter and local Trabzon-style cheese until it becomes an elastic, fondue-like mass — eaten with a spoon directly from the pan. It is the defining Black Sea dish, made across the Rize and Trabzon provinces. The corn flour gives it a different texture from polenta — more cohesive and elastic. The butter quantity is generous; it is a mountain winter dish. It appears at every traditional Black Sea restaurant.
What is hamsi and when is it in season near Rize?
Hamsi (Black Sea anchovy) is the defining ingredient of the eastern Black Sea coastal cuisine — a small, intensely flavoured anchovy that runs in the Black Sea from October to February. During the season, hamsi is prepared in multiple ways: hamsi pilavı (baked rice with anchovy layers), tava hamsi (pan-fried with cornmeal coating), hamsi köfte (ground anchovy meatballs), and hamsi in bread. Outside the season, dried or frozen hamsi is available but the quality drops significantly. Rize fish restaurants serve the full range.

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